Fortunately rooms available so had a lie down..... and view from the window somewhat improved a bit later
Only 4 of us on this tour and somewhat to our surprise we are not joining another group so very select. Went for a little explore of the local area finding a church with this lovely altar and stained glass
and passing this charming street
plenty of bougainvillia
and one of the local tourist police who keep the Miraflores area safe (as well as disrupting the traffic) fairly essential as there didn't seem to be any real rules about giving way at junctions and pedestrians very much second class on the road!
In the afternoon a whistle stop city tour ranging from ancient (well 200-700AD) temple areas of clay bricks
to the inevitable squares, palaces and churches
This area of the 'old town' has Spanish style of course and is very pleasant, this fine building somewhat overshadowed by its neighbours commemorates the granting of independence
and the locals were enjoying a band playing salsa/samba foot tapping and hip swinging.......
We also visited a Franciscan Monastery with stunning frescos and other paintings, none of which we were allowed to photograph, however we could take the main church
the garden was nice!!
Beneath both the church and monastery is a huge area of catacombs full of bones sorted in some cases by types of bone rather than individual skeletons, no pictures here either you'll be relieved to know!
Our final stop was the Larco Museum, this is a private family museum and I can only assume due to the quality of the exhibits that they are a family of very successful grave robbers, although not personally just good contacts! It is built over a pre-columbian temple and specialises in art before the Spanish conquest.
What looks like a very large necklace, a quipu is in fact a method of recording facts the translation is 'talking knots' and were used to keep records of harvests, taxes and trade.
The museum has quite a bit of gold, get that nose ring.....
pots of a period when we were in the middle ages, there was definitely a great spurt of culture as these are dated around 700 AD
and for adults only a fairly large room full of erotic cups and jugs, you have been warned...... just check out the facial expressions.
So to calm the excitement the gardens were lovely
this latter picture taken from the restaurant where we had a very pleasant meal with our guide.
To Cusco at 11,000 ft above sea level a test for my mended heart valve. It is a great sprawling city much bigger than I expected
First stop lunch in the main square
with something for the children very intricately carved and produced
then we went up even further over 12,000 ft to Saqsaywaman a large complex part fortress part temple. The Incas really knew their stuff, huge blocks of stone cut to fit perfectly together
with a obligatory Christ close by......
On our way to the sacred Valley we stopped at a farm where the differences between llamas, alpacas, vicunas and guanacos was explained. So they are all closely related to camels and each other suffice it to say guanacos are wild
but look closest to vicunas which have the softest coats and therefore wool and are domesticated as you can see
these alpacas were up by the temple
baby alpaca wool also being highly sort after and very expensive, llama wool not so much......
The Sacred Valley formed by glaciers so classic U shape
and with stunning mountain landscapes
Many people live here and they are good at using any space for agriculture
and in an area that has to wait for many deliveries to signify that a local bar has some booze a red bag is hung outside so sorry this is slightly blurred but simple and effective!
To Ollantaytambo the town with a railway to Aguas Calientes the modern town at the base of Machu Picchu the mountain and from where you catch the bus (or walk!) to the ruined Inca settlement of Machu Picchu. On the way we passed a group of Inca trail guides sorting out their equipment, you cannot follow the trail without one.
Ollantaytambo has it's own fairly substantial ruins
It is an interesting fact (well I think so) that the use of terraces for crops meant that much more food than would be required in any one year was produced and while some of the excess was traded much was stored against the unwelcome effect of the weather in particular what we call El Nino, these are some of the storage places high on the hill.
Back in the town I was surprised that what I expected to be waste water was in fact clean water flowing through the town
and a real mix of old and new - visa rules - on the pole
We visited a museum of how they used to live, one large room with different areas and hosted by Rosa
So a number of things stood out, a little shrine to the forefathers
the kitchen area which has a pen of live guinea pigs (the national dish, so for how much longer....) close by
some examples of the many types of corn grown
and some of the sacrifices and gifts for worship of Pachamama (earth mother) including alpaca foetuses , coca leaves and little totems
Rosa showed us how the dried potatoes and corn would be crushed using stones into flour then used to make patties etc. We left crossing the horseshoes at the entrance their to keep the house safe from evil spirits.
Anyone would think this was a tourist destination!
The train travels the valley next to the river
and more high level ruins - the smudge near the top of the mountain (not the reflection....)
all by 2pm! Leave our small bags and get on one of the fleet of 22 buses to the Machu Picchu
some hairpins and steep drops later, apparently no accidents yet......... we arrive at the entrance where not only a ticket but a passport is required to enter.
So you've all seen pictures before so just a few of mine
Most likely built by Pachakutiq (as I learnt to say) the leader in Cusco (1470's) who built up the Inca empire, the fact the stones have been dragged there and the size of the place is extraordinary and was just left when the Spanish came. Pleasant afternoon wandering at will and just started to ran as we left for a rather gentler drive down to our hotel where this is the view from my room and complimentary pisco sour before dinner......
Before leaving next morning we walked round the town, being rather glad we visited Machu Picchu the day before as we had no bus queue and much better weather
below with the condor (future life), puma (present life) and snake (past life - underworld), Cusco was laid out with the main external boundaries forming the shape of a stylised puma by him. Three is very important and the basis of the inca cross in the wall below this statue which also features the condor (future life), puma (present life) and snake (past life). At the time the settlement was taken over by Pachakutiq and expanded the main outside walls formed the outlines of a puma.
stepped (inca) chakana cross
the obligatory lock bridge
and some great stone carvings, the current mayor trying to make his mark
Pachamama
and we passed a restaurant selling the national dish .......
the train journey back was enlivened by a clown.
and seeing some pack animals on the trail
Back in Ollantaytambo I got another chance at the storage units in better weather
We drove back to Cusco by another route passing this 'hotel' that you have to climb to
Some locals
One of the very steep roads in the backstreets of Cusco
and another pisco sour at our new hotel in front of the fire, who knew they were so addictive!
Thank-you Brenda for keeping me company.
So I'm sitting at breakfast and this lady and her baby llama (I think) turns up opposite, would be rude not to take a photo
Our first visit is to the St Domingo Monastery mow a museum but lovely architecture
You may have noticed in some pf the Machu photos that the openings were trapezoid, this photo shows 3 in line built before surveying equipment, in a land of earthquakes much stronger we now know, indeed the Inca base of this building hasn't fallen down during some significant quakes when much else was destroyed. Pachakutiq rules OK!
Not only do they carve their blocks with precision but this shows a stone next to the pinky coloured one which was large enough to cover the corner in one piece making the whole structure much stronger, it's not a join just a mark on the stone.
Another tribute to Pachamama my new favourite god
The view of Cusco from the terrace emphasises the size of the city,
Stopping at a local folk museum I apparently became an Inca bride (or something) ......
Health and safety not what it is at home..... and very trusting of his trainers
Gate into the old town
to look at the old church
and the bustling market,
Walking around was quite tiring so bit of a rest before last meal out, group cold finally catching up with me so will be pleased to get back to sea level tomorrow.
Fancy dress for Latam staff......
Last night of tour, Lima full of visitors because there is a conference of the all Americas, Trump cancelled at the last minute (Syria........ or some lady......) so I'm on the 17th floor of 18 with a suite at the Sheraton way to go...........
Moved to a more modest hotel I can afford for the next 3 days which turns out to be slap bang next to the Marriott where there are huge numbers of 'men in suits'
It is easy to walk by the coast, although it is cliff top with the beach below
and good children's parks
out to supper with view of another cross
Lima is a pleasant city and they are obviously working on the sea front but the earthquakes make access from the city to the beach problematic.
Sitting in the small hotel courtyard I watched the resident tortoise make a couple of dashes for freedom, and I mean dash, quite a turn of speed
Final day a mess because of delayed flight but managed to leave Madrid, another cross
and then this lovely sunset on the way back to London to round off an amazing trip. I might need a holiday!
