Sunday 27 February 2011

Goodbye to South island

Volunteered for an early start but really wanted to see the Tasman Able National Park and wasn't disappointed, wonderful beaches,

rock formations.

Saw a stingray in one of the bays, surprised the boat didn't collapse as a rush to one side ensued. Unfortunately not clear enough for photo bur I know I saw it! More seals and some very disdainful birds who turned their backs on us.

The weather was cloudy to begin with but turned sunny during the latter part of the trip and clear blue sky by the time I returned to Nelson. Quick trip to the cathedral which has an unusual bell tower

and back for little laze in sun and swim at hotel which I felt I deserved for getting up early! Hotel right by the tidal river and the good restaurant looks over it, however went into town for supper and came across the NZ version of Morris Dancers in the street near the cathedral!

Our driver had departed back to Christchurch to sort out family problems so we waited at the appointed time next morning (friday) for a new driver to arrive. He had a different timetable so was late. had difficulty in opening up the bus and informed us he was only taking us to Wellington and flying straight back that evening, not a promising start! Still he managed some commentary on the way to Picton to pick up the Interislander ferry, passing the birthplace of Rutherford the Nobel scientist and making a comfort stop at a village with a good mussel shop!!

Shouldn't then fail to mention mile upon mile of vineyards in Marlborough, lovely flat growing area

and certainly haven't had a bad wine yet here. Area also grows apples and kiwi fruit and some olives too. Picton looked quite picturesque in the lunchtime sunshine and sailing out through Marlborough Sound (flooded river valley if you were paying attention earlier) houses only accessible by boat, photo's say it all.




Wellington

This post should come after Goodbye to South Island, posted two at same time, sorry.

Journey time about 3 hours and after some of the passengers had helped the driver to get back into the bus we set off for a little orientation tour which since the poor man hadn't been to Wellington for about 10 years proved rather time consuming. Since I had phoned to set a time to meet my cousin Frances I was increasingly anxious and ended up collecting my own luggage and rushing up to the room to do a quick clothes swap and out. Lovely to see her and John in their home about half an hour from the centre, we had venison casserole (possibly home shot!!) and caught up on some family news.
You can see my concern over the timer on my camera!!

A lie in, followed by a trip to Te Papa the main Museum where many of my fellow tourers were also wandering around. Also much to everyone's relief  2  of the travellers we had left in Christchurch who were caught up in the earthquake. They so so fortunately had decided not to visit the Cathedral about 10 mins before it happened, all their baggage is impounded in the hotel so they had spent the night outside in the rain and then come to Wellington to get new passports before returning home. Scenes of great joy all round. ( I have also heard from Mike and Lori that unusually they were in Christchurch centre at a meeting with the building shaking alarmingly but fortunately holding up and so had to walk back to their school which was also damaged along cracked and liquified roads. As I had assumed they were much further away from the centre and out of danger I was mortified I had not confirmed they were OK before!)

Any way returning to my trip with Frances after leaving the Museum we did a tour of the centre seeing the parliament building

and some fancy skyscrapers quite a change from everywhere else we've seen so far. The main housing is clapboard and on hills so hope they have good foundations and the house Katherine Mansfield the writer was born in is a fine example.

Close into the centre they are 2 storey further out they tend to be single storey as there is plenty of space and flatter land. We then drove round the bay to one of her favourite bays for lunch before returning back to her house. A trip to the ballet followed in the evening a lovely finale to our meeting.

Note in my room says be checked out by 8.30am to meet driver for trip to Napier I wander what he will be like!

Wednesday 23 February 2011

Beach Art

Somewhat soberingly found out that quite a bit of damage to the hotel we had been staying at in Christchurch and death toll rising from surrounding area all the time. So went walking on the beach last night and got some interesting beach shots which follow.


We acted angels to some travellers who had been due to go back to Christchurch but had arranged to fly out of Nelson, our next stop, who hitched a ride on our bus. Set off in rather dull weather conditions and stopped for a scenic view which was somewhat disrupted by a sudden rain shower I blame our driver!! However by the time we arrived at the seal colony weather rather better and I wont bore you with pictures of seals on rocks any more but some were quite cute.
Travelled on up the coast turning inland at westport up the Buller Gorge

to Murchison for lunch. Quite a pretty town as they go after Westport, with an interesting museum and art gallery.

We visited the WOW museum in Nelson (World of Wearableart ) quite extraordinary place with costumes made out of all sorts of different things and very inventive. Alongside is an amazing collection of old cars am still suffering the jealousy pangs!

Nelson also seems pleasant town, has suffered earthquakes in the past, everywhere seems a little more dangerous now down here.

Tuesday 22 February 2011

Dodging earthquakes!

After my lovely evening in Christchurch, very fortunately for us, we were up bright and early and left by 9.00am. We travelled past the wine district I had visited before then through the Lewis pass toward the northern west coast. Stopped for coffee at Culverden where they have an interestingly named gift shop.

It was only when we reached our lunch stop at Reefton that we heard about the earthquake in Christchurch. As we had left fellow travellers behind and our driver currently lives there, all rather concerning. Where I had dined the night before had a rock fall and our hotel was only 150 yards from the Cathedral which lost the spire you can see here.

It happened at lunch time and epicentre much closer than the quake last November, in fact at the port I had also looked over the night before so all rather close.

Reefton itself is a mining town, many now closed and has lovely old engine next to the skateboard park.

We then continued to a pub in Blackball, originally called The Blackball Hilton until they got a solicitors letter from the Hilton Hotels group so they changed the name to 'Formerly' the Blackball Hilton.

It is an interesting place which also has a union history and lots of old local papers about the various mining disasters including the most recent last November when quite a few miners lost their lives.
A drink was also what we needed while we looked at pictures on the TV of the city we had just left.

We then travelled on to Punakaiki where they have interesting rock formations and the waves crash into the shore have blasted holes in the rock from which water escapes in odd places.

Our hotel is right on the shore so we can watch the crashing waves







no chance of sunset which would have been over the sea, but then the blow holes probably wouldn't be working so apparently can't have it all and should perhaps be grateful to be here at all!

Monday 21 February 2011

Sunrise to sunset

Up early before the moon had set and the sun had totally risen!



Ferry left at 8am and we had very calm crossing even had a coffee on the way.

Drove to Stirling Point end of Route 1 where there are matching chains  to the redish ones on the island rather more visible this time

and signpost to all significant places, a long way from home!

Drove back to Queenstown for lunch although driver told us different things to keep us entertained and ate over looking the water in quiet part not explored before.

Onward to the site of the first bungy jump, by A J Hackett , free to those over 65 but I didn't fancy spending £90 on 30 seconds of 'fun'!

Then past Cromwell where stopped at very good fruit stall so vitamin C quotient will be ok, passing through Mackenzie country where in theory lots of sheep. So far it seems like we have seen nearly as many deer and dairy farms as sheep ones although these are Merino which gives very soft and expensive wool.

Bus playing up again and eventually rescued by another bus to take us to Lake Ohau lodge. Beautiful spot on lake, skiing resort in the winter, weather still rather cloudy but caught a rainbow out of the restaurant window but no fancy sunset which we might otherwise have had over the lake.

Bus repaired by morning and another lovely sunrise

before setting off back to Christchurch via parts of the major hydro electricity complex of lakes and canals,

the Church of the Good Shepherd on lake Tekapo founded by one Rev Davies (who else!!), 'Geraldine' for lunch and the Canterbury plains rather flat after all these mountains.

Arrived in Christchurch just before 4.00pm and visited the museum where there was a very good exhibition on the photo's taken on the Scott and Shakleton expeditions to Antartica, plus walked round the botanical gardens before heading back to hotel. Very pleased to meet up with school friend Tricia's (who I'm visiting in Melbourne later) brother Michael and his wife Lori

for a trip to the beach at Sumner and supper. 

Probably close to 40 years since I last saw them. It was extremely good of them to give up their Monday evening to me as they live outside the city and are both still working so thank-you!

Slightly diminished group now continuing to the north island over the next 11 days, hope the bus holds up.

Saturday 19 February 2011

Stewart Island

Leisurely breakfast in room before stroll round the town, then a tour of the island. Wonderful beaches and shame rather grey day.

Much of it is a national park and they are trying to ensure indigenous species are not displaced. Founded by Scots hence Oban is the main (and only ) town with apparently 380 inhabitants in total and children have to board on the mainland from the age of 13. A few habitations are outside the town but services are extremely limited and expensive. Electricity is produced by generators which run on fuel shipped over from the mainland! Just starting to put in some solar panels but not the sunniest place, whilst there is lots of wind but quite a lot of concern over the effect of wind turbines on the views and wildlife, so life not easy.

We then crossed over to Ulva island which is uninhabited and a bird sanctuary, some lovely birdsong and caught sight of a number of famous birds including a saddleback

and fantail which I failed to capture on film as well as their version of a robin.

The birdsong of some was lovely while we got to see how the forest is without main paths as well as seeing an orchid in flower.

Molly birds on the way back which are actually albatrosses landing much more elegantly on the sea than I've seen them land on the ground!
 Crossing to look forward tomorrow likely to be rougher than journey over, hopefully I will keep breakfast down.

Queenstown to Stewart Island

Early start on drive to Milford Sound ( which is actually a fjord i.e. a flooded glacial valley but who's counting!) via Mossburn, Mirror Lakes and Te Anau. (Think Keannu Reeves) The scenery continues to be amazing with huge vistas which are so difficult to capture on film. Mossburn has a lovely little church similar to others we have seen congregations must be small!

Just loved this cloud scene




Te Anau a very pleasant town on it's own lake

last place of civilisation before descending down glacial valleys to Milford, discovered by a Welshman. (who else!) Lots of waterfalls

many of which only flowing when lots of rain and we are enjoying lovely sunny day but tracks still visible. Long and steep tunnel through mountain only completed in the 1980's makes the place accessible by land. Arrived to board the overnight boat at 4.30pm and sailed up the fjord

before stopping for 'activities'. It could have been a boat ride but I went kayaking instead and have a picture from the boat crew to prove it, available to those at home. The trouble with this area is the sand flies which bite through the insect repellent and rather spoiled the trip close to the shore but fortunately avoided the worse and then sat on deck in the sunshine with glass of sparkling wine, well I am on holiday!! Dinner very good and then little presentation on the wild life to be found in and around the fjord before bed. A rather early start breakfast at 7am (and yes I made it!!) however such a change in the weather, all misty and murky

which is apparently more likely than our lovely sunny day of arrival. Good to see the comparison however and did see a seal

on the way back as well as close up and personal with a waterfall.

Landed at 9.15am and back the same and only way to Te Anau before turning south to Invercargill which is pleasant city with a good little museum with both the actual bike of Burt Monroe

featured in the film staring Anthony Hopkins about a man wanting to beat the motor bike speed record and a very ancient Tuatara called Henry (over 100 years old) amongst others of which there is a picture!
Then on to Bluff which is the most southerly point on the mainland of South Island and ferry point to Stewart Island renowned for it's wildlife and rough crossings. (Not so bad this way at least for us)
Place awash with youngsters as big wedding on the island, made my own supper as have room with kitchenette and limited restaurant capacity but have booked for Saturday night in only pub on island! Have tour and cruise during the day to look forward to.