Why
have I never been to Berlin before? Such an interesting place as many
of you will know, I feel quite foolish that it has taken me so long
to catch up and write this blog!! Word to those who might consider a visit, don't go in
the winter it was bitterly cold!
Travelled
club class (avios sometimes useful) along with Jerry Hall (ex-wife of
Mick Jagger) who held everyone up at passport control by being in the
wrong queue, she obviously still travels on a USA passport. Arrived
at hotel in West Berlin mid afternoon so just time to check-in then
have a little walk locally before it got dark, passing a store long gone from the UK
and the 'Erotik Museum' shades of Iceland!! Although I thought I had prepared for the cold the thought of layering up in order to go out looking for a restaurant was rather less appealing than popping downstairs to the hotel restaurant!
and the 'Erotik Museum' shades of Iceland!! Although I thought I had prepared for the cold the thought of layering up in order to go out looking for a restaurant was rather less appealing than popping downstairs to the hotel restaurant!
I
found the starting point for a guided walk next morning and what a
walk! Fortunately meeting place not too far from my hotel in West Berlin
and was introduced to the train system by the guide, since most of
what Berlin is famous for is found in what was East Berlin. As a
London tube user not difficult and overground so quite pleasant.
We
started in Alexanderplatz where ancient and modern collide with a
medieval church and very tall tower the top of which sometimes
disappeared into the clouds.
Walking
to Museum island which houses the cathedral
as well as the Alte, (where Hitler apparently liked to stand on the top of the steps), the National gallery
as well as the Alte, (where Hitler apparently liked to stand on the top of the steps), the National gallery
and the Neues and Pergamon as well the building holding a memorial statue open to the elements above, commemorating all the war dead, if you are a radio 4 listener you will have heard the Director of the British Museum refer to it during his series on Germany, very moving of a Mother with her son.
Carrying
on, through the university area small plaques in the pavement were pointed out being memorials of
university students killed during the war and some after, very
poignant.
We
then passed walls left with the bullet marks from shootings
and Angela Merkel's apartment, fairly low key security so I assume she wasn't there even though it was a Sunday. Second yellow one along apparently.
and Angela Merkel's apartment, fairly low key security so I assume she wasn't there even though it was a Sunday. Second yellow one along apparently.
Walking
down Unter Linden once on the border between east and west the
railway signs still show both typefaces
we
passed the book burning memorial, empty shelves beneath where a great
many books had been burned in the square near the university.
The
old border is marked by a double line of bricks in the road and in
some cases the border was through buildings which must have been
strange and the angle shown here indicates how arbitary the whole thing was!
We
reached the Brandenburg gate which is very imposing
and close to the Reichstag (of which more later) and then walked on to the Jewish Memorial of 2811 concrete blocks of different shapes and sizes to wander around and reflect. The creator has refused to confirm the reason for the number but the photos can't really do justice to the scale of the place.
and close to the Reichstag (of which more later) and then walked on to the Jewish Memorial of 2811 concrete blocks of different shapes and sizes to wander around and reflect. The creator has refused to confirm the reason for the number but the photos can't really do justice to the scale of the place.
We
then walked to a place in the middle of some new blocks of flats built
over Hitler's bunker finding out that his old house has been
completely destroyed.
Carrying
on we walked past the Luftwaffer headquarters, now the tax office
with this mural on the wall
and
on to the Memory of Terrors Place which is the ground the Gestapo
headquarters building had occupied so much history in a relatively
small area with underground cells left visible.
Our
walk ended at Checkpoint Charlie by which time it was close to 4pm
having started at 10am!
I
did a swift walk back to the Neues Museum which wouldn't be open on
the Monday to view amongst other things the amazing head of
Nefertiti. The building has only been re-opened since 2009 having
been damaged in the war but houses their Egyptian collections as well
as other artifacts from Troy (always contention between the western
Europeans over who got to these old sites first) and the ancient
history of northern europe.
Unfortunately not enough time to do it justice as needed to get back to hotel and change before going out to a concert at the Berlin Philarmonia. In order to get there I used the U9 and U2 train routes and yes the pop group is named after it!
Unfortunately not enough time to do it justice as needed to get back to hotel and change before going out to a concert at the Berlin Philarmonia. In order to get there I used the U9 and U2 train routes and yes the pop group is named after it!
Lovely
concert hall and sublime music, fortunately not ending too late.
Monday
morning and off to visit the Reichstag, as had pre-booked a time slot
which as you have to provide passport etc details proved beneficial
(the joys of the internet). Designed by Norman Foster it is a clever
building where you can walk up to the top of the dome
where there is a cafe but you can also look down into the chamber, just visible through the reflection above. Unfortunately the weather not exactly on my side for views from the top but you get the idea.
Plus the mirrored glass covering the central area makes for some interesting photo opportunities.
One of the oddest self portraits I've taken!
where there is a cafe but you can also look down into the chamber, just visible through the reflection above. Unfortunately the weather not exactly on my side for views from the top but you get the idea.
Plus the mirrored glass covering the central area makes for some interesting photo opportunities.
One of the oddest self portraits I've taken!
Then
managed to negotiate the bus system back to Museum island to visit
the Historical Museum which houses an interesting mix of items
including the famous picture of Martin Luther by Cranach right up to
old mines from the war,
the building and later destruction of the infamous wall, but also including Napoleon's hat, quite why I'm not sure!
the building and later destruction of the infamous wall, but also including Napoleon's hat, quite why I'm not sure!
I
then went to the Pergamon, gosh what a place (and only a small part
was open) it has the capacity to show a reconstruction of the 'Gates
of Babylon' ( Ishtar Gate) or at least the smaller gate although the pictures show
just how grand it would have been, the second photo is of a model and the smaller gate in front is the one reconstructed from original tiles shown below.
Then
there is the Market gate of Miletus a Roman town
and
the Pergamon Altar, a Greek find with a well preserved frieze showing
the battle of the Olympian Gods against the Giants placed within a
reconstruction of what the whole thing would have looked like, but unfortunately my photo rubbish, so a reason for you to go and see for yourself.
And
finally another monumental facade this time from Jordan, German
archaeologists obviously very busy!
Not
surprisingly all this culture had taken it's toll so wended way back
to hotel before venturing out for supper, had surprisingly cheap
(well compared to London!) and good meal.
Home tomorrow so booked taxi to airport which was smart move as woke to snow!
Visited
the Fredrikstrasse Church which has been left with a damaged spire as
another war memorial but a modern bell tower stands alongside. Some
lovely mosaic work
Spent some time watching the German efficiency de-icing the plane wings
fortunately they seem to have made a good job, since I'm here to tell the tale!
My last view of a fabulous city.
Definitely plan to go back in a summer, so more time to just wander in the warm!
fortunately they seem to have made a good job, since I'm here to tell the tale!
My last view of a fabulous city.
Definitely plan to go back in a summer, so more time to just wander in the warm!